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When they finally appeared, many people thought they were unnecessary, impractical and even scandalous
It’s too hot for a winter coat yet too cold for just a jacket… You need a circle cape (otherwise known as a capelet in the US)! Brilliant for all temperatures, circle cape coats look stylish and are comfortable to wear.
Designer Portia Lawrie created this free circle cape pattern to help you sew your own version. We asked her about her design and she said:
“Capes, ponchos, blanket coats and wraps are always in style, and super-easy to make, too. It’s the perfect on-trend cover-up.
The addition of the red leather buckle fastening picks up on the fine red line in the check, adds a subtle pop of colour, modernises the look and prevents it from looking too… You know, Sherlocky.
Construction is straightforward and the shape itself is ‘no pattern required’ with just a bit of elementary maths needed (see what I did there?).”
Keep reading to find Portia’s free circle cape pattern, and for more cosy sewing patterns, head to our round-up of the best coat sewing patterns.
What you need to stitch your circle cape
You will need:
- Wool-weight fabric: 2 metres (2¼ yds)
- Iron-on interfacing: see instructions for details
- Bias binding: to fit around the cape
- Tailor’s chalk
- Basic sewing kit
Notes
- Use a wool-weight fabric with a good drape. We used Edinburgh large check tweed – brown from Minerva Crafts. It’s soft, warm and drapey, perfect for a cape or wrap like this.
- Red leather buckles can easily be bought online – ours was a bag buckle bought from eBay.
- Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance throughout.
Free cape sewing pattern
Preparing your circle cape fabric
Step 1
Start by cutting a square of fabric (use a rotary cutter for this), the same length as the full width of the fabric.
Fold the square in half twice to create a smaller square.
There will be one corner where all the folded edges meet.
Anchor a tape measure in that corner with a pin.
Measuring your circle cape
Step 2
Decide how long you want your cape to be, then add 2.5cm (1in) for hemming to calculate the cut length.
Starting with one of the straight edges, measure down to the cut length and mark with a pin.
Using the anchored tape, measure as a kind of pendulum, pivot the tape measure around in an arc and mark out a quarter circle with pins until you reach the other straight edge.
Calculating your measurements
Step 3
Repeat this process for the neck hole.
To calculate the measurement here, measure around your neck to see what would be a comfortable size of neck opening for you.
For example, if you want your finished neck hole to be 43cm (17in), then that measurement is the circumference of the circle you need to cut.
You need to calculate the radius of that circle using Pi. So: 43 ÷ 6.28 (pi x 2) = 6.8. Therefore, your radius is 6.8cm, so you need to mark your neckline quarter circle to this measurement with a series of pins.
This is done in the same way as for the hem, starting from the anchored tape measure in the corner.
Drawing and cutting out your capelet pattern
Step 4
Using the pin markers you placed along the hem, chalk a smooth cutting line for your hem quarter circle.
Weight the fabric down with some DIY pattern weights and cut through all layers at once.
Step 5
Repeat this for the neckline.
Step 6
Cut through just one of the folded straight edges from the neck edge to the bottom to create your cape opening.
Step 7
Open your cut fabric up, and you will have a perfect circle with a smaller cut-out circle inside and a single straight-edge opening.
Step 8
With the circle folded in half and all raw edges aligned, remove some of the fullness and add some slope to the shoulders by removing a wedge from the shoulder lines as shown.
Draw a line sloping from the neck edge to the bottom, making it 1cm (3⁄8in) wide at the top and 6cm (2½in) wide at the hem.
Draw the same line on both sides, then cut along it.
Start sewing your circle cape
Step 9
Stitch the cape together along these cut edges. It will be worth pinning these seams first and trying your cape on in case you need to alter them slightly for a more pleasing fit and drape to suit you.
Step 10
For a clean finish on the neckline and front opening, draft a facing by laying tracing paper over the garment and tracing the neckline curves, shoulder lines and open edge.
Trace the front and back pieces separately, and add a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance all the way around.
Draw these shapes as paper patterns and use them to cut your facing pieces from the remainder of your cape fabric.
How to interface your capelet
Step 11
Interface your facing pieces with light to medium-weight fusible interfacing pressed to the wrong side.
Join each of the three facings at the shoulder seams and finish the outside raw edges.
Step 12
Pin the facing, right sides (RS) together to the cape neckline and opening. Stitch together, then clip the curves.
Step 13
Press the facing away from the garment, then understitch the facing to the seam allowances for a neater edge.
Step 14
Turn the facing through to the inside of the cape.
Poke out the corners at the neckline, then press everything thoroughly.
Wool will often need steaming and ‘clapping’ to get a crisp edge. This entails applying a good amount of steam and then, very quickly, whacking the seam really hard with a tailor’s ‘clapper’ (a rolling pin works well for this too!).
This action has the effect of forcing the steam out of the fabric at a speed which, in turn, helps it to stay flat.
Hemming your circle cape pattern
Step 15
Hemming curves can be tricky, but using bias binding will give your hem a crisp curve.
Starting in the centre of the back of the hem, unfold one long edge of your bias binding and, matching raw edges, stitch it RS together along the edges of your cape and facings along the fold line of the bias.
Finishing your new circle cape coat!
Step 16
Fold and press the bias binding round to the inside and slip stitch in place by hand, overlapping the short edges.
Step 17
Stitch your buckle into place, and you’re done. Now pair your capelet pattern with a wide-brimmed felt hat and you’re ready to swoosh!
Whip up your own circle cape
Follow our free sewing pattern and wear your new circle cape out and about. Perfect for dog walks or special occasions, circle capes are great all-rounders and ideal for mild to colder weather.
Pair your capelet pattern with some black leggings and a simple wrap top for a stylish, comfortable outfit. Now that you’ve made a circle cape, you can stitch anything!
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