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Stitching embroidery onto your clothes is a great way to add your own creative flair to any outfit or to bring a new lease of life to an old garment. This article will explain the basics, as well as show you a super simple method for transferring a design onto your fabric using soluble stabiliser.
Preparation
- Make sure you prewash the garment! This has two main benefits: Firstly, it removes any loose pigment from the clothing, which may discolour your stitching. Secondly, it reduces the risk of the stitching becoming distorted in future washes (as clothing may shrink slightly in the wash which would cause the stitching to become baggy)
- The next factor to consider is whether your threads are colourfast. The term colourfast is used to describe threads that are suitable for washing. Most brands will indicate this on their label, along with washing instructions.
- If your threads do not say on the labels, then you can check whether they are colourfast by cutting a short length, wetting it with hot water and then leaving it to dry on some white cotton fabric. If the fabric is still white once the thread is dry, you should be good to stitch with it.
Transferring the design
There are lots of different ways to transfer a design onto your garment, such as using carbon paper, or if the garment is thin enough, using a light box and transfer pen. But I recommend using adhesive soluble stabiliser.
Some brands of soluble stabiliser can be used in a printer. To reduce the chance of the printer ink transferring to the fabric or thread when it’s washed out, we recommend changing settings to ‘eco’ or draft settings.
To transfer by hand using adhesive soluble stabiliser:
Step one: Take your piece of stabiliser and lay it on top of the template – using a lightbox will help make the outline visible.
Step two: Trace the outline onto the stabiliser using a pencil or fabric safe pen. You want to make sure the ink from the pen won’t stain the threads when you wash it away later.
Step three: Cut out the design with a generous border – at least 1cm or more for larger designs.
Step four: Peel off the backing paper and apply it to the clothing. Mount the garment in an embroidery hoop at this point (if needed) – just be sure not to pull it too taut and it will cause the fabric to pucker.
Stitching the design
- The loop start method is the best way of starting your line of stitching without a knot on the back of the fabric. It is particularly useful when stitching on clothing as it will reduce skin irritation caused by lumps and bumps on the inside of the garment. Cut a double length of thread (approximately 60cm in length) and separate out your strands. Take those strands and fold in half to create a loop at one end. Thread the cut ends through your needle, work a stitch and then slip your needle through the loop at the back.
- Avoid working long stitches as they will be prone to snagging. If you wish to work a large area, avoid using Satin Stitch – instead, use Long and Short Stitch or Split Stitch to fill it.
- Secure the ends of your stitches without a knot by stitching them through the back of your previous stitches. Once complete, make sure all the ends are secure and trim off any loose ends.
Wash out the stabiliser
- Soak the area in warm water and leave it for a generous amount of time so it can fully dissolve.
- Gently brush your fingers across the stitching to make sure the stabiliser is completely gone and there is no sticky or slimy residue. Make sure not to vigorously rub the stitching as this will make it look messy.
- Squeeze out excess moisture by rolling the garment in a towel before hanging to dry.
Aftercare
Keep your stitching looking good for longer by:
- Backing your stitching with interfacing – this will not only add extra stability to your stitching, but also prevent skin irritation from the back of the stitching.
- Follow the washing instructions on the labels of both the garment and the threads. If they differ, select the gentlest option.
Summary
There you have it, a super simple way to customize any garment with embroidery. Now you know the theory, it’s time to put it into practice.
Try stitching on a jacket, a t-shirt, some jeans or even some kids dungerees. If your garment is made of an unusual or tricky material then read my article about stitching on different types of fabric for some tips and tricks.
Happy Stitching!
