Learning embroidery starts with learning the basic stitches. Learn 23 different types of embroidery stitches with our handy guide! Make sure you bookmark it for your reference!
Embroidery is a beautiful and mindful hobby, and learning the basic embroidery stitches is easy. If you are new to embroidery having a library of different stitches is essential. It’ll help you to remember the stitches you have learnt and help you to master new techniques.
If you are brand new to embroidery and would like some more context in this rich craft, make sure you read our complete how to embroider guide.
If you are simply looking to expand your embroidery knowledge, you’ll find a suggested project on each stitch, which will allow you to practice on a free embroidery project.
This embroidery stitch is fun for decorative stitching or appliqué. Try to keep the spacing and stitch height consistent… or change it up to create a pattern!
Come up at point 1.
Go down at point 2 and come back up at point 3, keeping the needle over the working thread.
They are tricky at first, but with a little practice, bullion knots are useful for creating texture and beautiful flowers in your embroidery.
Come up at point 1, then go down at point 2 and back up at point 1, keeping the needle through the fabric.
Wrap the needle until the wrapping is as long as the space between points 1 and 2. If you don’t want the knot to lay flat against the fabric, wrap it a little more.
Holding the wrapping with your non-dominant hand, carefully pull the needle through the wrapped thread.
Go down at point 2 and pull the thread until the stitch lays well.
If you find French knots tricky then try this alternative for creating eyes and other dotted details.
Come up at point 1, form a backward C with the thread and place your needle over the C.
Wrap the thread over and then under the point of the needle.
While holding the working thread taut, bring the needle down at point 2 (next to point 1, but not the same hole) and pull slowly until the knot is formed.
This is an embroidery stitch that everyone should learn because it’s so useful. The secret is to hold the working thread taut while you pull it through.
Come up at point 1, then wrap the thread around the needle twice.
Holding the working thread with your non-dominant hand, bring the needle down at point 2 (close to point 1, but not the same hole).
This embroidery stitch is useful for stitching seam openings closed as it creates a nearly invisible line of stitching! Use this version when the two sides of the seam are held together.
Bring the needle out about 0.5mm below the fold on the inside of one side of the seam.
On the opposite side of the seam, directly across from where the thread came out, go in at point 1 and back out at point 2.
Go in at point 3 and back out at point 4.
Work back and forth on each side of the seam, stitching about .5mm below the fold.
Every few embroidery stitches, gently pull the thread to tighten the seam.
A great way to get yourself familiar with embroidery is by trying a kit! An embroidery kit for beginners contains everything you need, and often has lots of tips and tricks for beginners.
10. Picot stitch
A picot stitch is a perfect choice to create dimensional flowers, leaves, feathers, and more in your embroidery. The base is anchored to the fabric, but the rest of the stitch is woven and free from the material.
Place a sewing pin with a large head vertically through the fabric.
Bring the needle up at point 1.
Bring the working thread behind the head of the pin and go back down at point 2.
Come back up at point 3 next to the pin and as centred between points 1 and 2 as possible.
Bring the working thread behind the head of the pin then weave the needle under, over, and under the three vertical threads.
Push the thread up to the top.
Now from the side where the working thread comes out, weave the needle over, under, and over the vertical threads.
Repeat, weaving back and forth, snugging the thread to the top each time.
When the shape is filled, bring the needle to the back of the fabric.
When you want to fill an area with a smooth finish, this stitch is the ideal choice. It’s best worked in small areas, because if the stitches are too long, they may snag.
Come up at point 1, then go down at point 2.
Come up at point 3, then go down at point 4.
Repeat. Always work the stitches across the area you’re filling, coming up on the opposite side where your needle went down.
A great embroidery stitch for working outlines. When you make the ‘split’ try to go through the fibres, and not just in between the strands of embroidery thread.
Come up at point 1, then go down at point 2.
Come up at point 3, splitting the previous stitch, then go down at point 4.
Repeat.
Try machine embroidery
If you are looking to dip your toe into the world of machine embroidery, check out our detailed guide to beginner embroidery machines.
This woven embroidery stitch is easy to work with and creates stunning flowers that stand out from the material. It is usually started with five spokes but can be worked with more, as long as there is an odd number of spokes.
For a more dimensional stitch pack the weaving tight. For a more flat and open stitch, keep the woven thread looser.
Using straight stitches of even length, form five spokes of the woven wheel. It should look a bit like a star.
Bring the needle up close to the centre of the wheel.
Pass the needle over one spoke and under the next.
Pull the thread through so it is close to the centre.
Pass the needle over the next spoke and under the one after that.
Repeat, weaving the needle over and under the spokes around the wheel.
When the wheel is full, bring the needle to the back of the fabric.
Split stitch, as the name suggests, involves splitting the thread of the previous stitch and creates a similar appearance to that of chain stitch.
It’s brilliant for beginners to learn as it’s so simple and versatile – you can use it to outline a design or to fill an area with texture when you work it in dense rows.
Take the needle in at 1, out at 2, in at 3 and out at 1
Push the needle back in at 4 and out at 3
Don’t pull the thread all the way through; leave a loop on the front
Continue in this way along the line, leaving a loop of thread each time
When done, cut the loops to your desired fringe length.
23. Woven picot stitch
There are a few varieties of woven picot stitch. The version explained here has three prongs, is attached to the fabric on one edge and extends out in a triangular shape. This stitch is perfect for working flower petals and leaves.
Insert a pin through the picot tip and out at the base of the stitch. Bring your needle up through the fabric in the bottom left – in line with where the pin exits the fabric. Take the needle around the back of the pin and insert it bottom right. Then come up at the centre, just above the pin.
Pull through, and move the working thread around the back of the pin.
Take the needle under the first thread, over the second, and under the third at the top. Pull fairly tightly to bring the threads together.
Reverse the direction from the other side, moving over, under, and over the thread. Pull to bring the threads together. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to fill the shape. Then remove the pin to reveal a complete woven picot stitch.
Put your new embroidery stitches skills to the test
As you may have noticed, we have assigned each stitch its own ‘recommended project’. Each one is a free embroidery project which will help you to practice your new stitch!
Keep on practising your embroidery stitches
Once you’ve mastered the basic stitches, you’ll be able to take on a wide range of projects! If you want to keep on expanding your knowledge, try to choose a project with a stitch that is new to you. Try these easy embroidery patterns.
Mollie is the author of Stitch Love: Sweet Creatures Big & Small. She lives near Chicago and is happiest with a cup of coffee and some stitching. She specializes in designing exceedingly cute, contemporary embroidery and cross stitch projects with a kawaii influence. Her work has been featured on The Spruce Crafts and in books and magazines including Simply Sewing Magazine, Cross Stitch Crazy and Mollie Makes. She co-hosts the Very Serious Crafts Podcast with Haley Pierson-Cox and Heidi Gustad. Find her on Instagram @molliejohanson
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